cheapandcheerful

Nové Mesto (New Town)

*View from my Old Bedroom Window in New Town,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

As the area I lived in, Nové Mesto was the one I spent most of my time in Prague. After a couple of weeks and exploring, I way preferred to any other district. Here’s what I found!

Tourist Bits, Activities and Quirky Spots.

Franz Kafka Head: If you don’t know who Kafka is and you’re coming to Prague, do yourself a favour and look him up. He’s one of the pride and joys of the city – so much so that there’s a giant revolving statue of his head!

*Franz Kafka Head,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Globe Bookstore and Cafe: This is one of my all-time favourite spots in Prague. It’s a very cool, English-speaking bookshop and cafe/bar. There’s always events on like quizzes, mystery-themed nights, open-mics and more. I joined the Writers Group that meets there every Monday and can’t recommend it enough – it was one of the best things I did in the city (please say hi to them if you’re in there between 7pm-9pm on a Monday!). The drinks are great and the brunch menu is delicious. If you’re in any way interested, the group released an anthology while I was there, which is available at the following link: https://www.kennys.ie/results/?q=ostrich+street+anthology

*Matcha Latte in the Globe, © Orla Carty, 2019*

*Event Night at the Globe, © Saint Twins Detective Prague*, 2019

*Copy of the Ostrich Street Anthology, signed by the whole group, © Orla Carty 2019*

New Town Hall (Novomesto Radnice): The town hall is a building dating back to 1348. There’s some rich history to it. Check it out for both the exhibitions and the view at the top. Entry is less than the equivalent of €3 – but be careful; it’s shut from the end of November and doesn’t open again until April.

Charles Square (Karlovo Namesti): This is one of the largest squares, not just in Prague, but in the whole world! It’s a really nice place to sit with a book on a sunny day, or just to bring a takeaway coffee with a friend. Sometimes, there’s festivals etc. there to check out as well.

Food.

All Fresh (Greek): If you need a healthy option after all the Prague beer, this is an amazing spot for salads. They’ve plenty of options and make it up freshly in front of you (hence the name, of course). I’d recommend going for the small size though – the portions are huge and cost less than €4! My favourite was the hot ‘n’ spicy salad with green pesto dressing.

Pizza Kmotra (Italian): Although the food here is mainly pizza and pasta, the vibe is very traditional Czech. It’s the best quality feed around the area for a low price. If you were going for a nice family dinner etc., this is the kind of place I would suggest (although nice friend dinners would also be ideal). Just make sure to bring Google Translate as the menu isn’t in English. Also don’t be deceived by the small street-face, there’s a huge underground area as per typical Prague!

Royal Kebab: Street food at its best! This stall, just off the tram stop Lazarska, serves a huge variety at a mega-cheap price. You can get falafel, kebabs, pizza, hummus, drinks and more. Not to mention – the guys working there are the friendliest people. I was a regular as I lived so close by and they gave me free food or half-priced things more often than I can count. I’d recommend the white-sauce, sweetcorn and spinach pizza.

Mama Cafe: This was my absolute favourite haunt for work/writing bits. With two floors, there’s plenty of space for laptop-workers, language lessons and regular chats. The iced coffee is great and they’ve lots of lovely healthy and vegetarian options. Glass walls also mean great people-watching opportunities!

Cafe Neustadt: This is a really bohemian, hidden cafe. You walk right into a courtyard opposite Mama Cafe to get inside. Much quieter than the work bustle I mentioned above, it’s the ideal place for a peaceful read or a pensive think. The coffee is a little more expensive but great quality. It’s worth it for the ambiance.

Sushi Time: This was a severe addiction of mine during my time in Prague. There’s lots of locations around Prague, with some supermarkets even selling some of the chain, but my local was the one right by the Franz Kafka head. You can order freshly made curries, soups etc. and buy packages sushi. Don’t be put off though – it’s made fresh and is great quality (for Prague standards – as an inland country, it’s not great overall). They also have little salad boxes that are delicious and cheap.

*Sushi Time Vegetarian Salad Box,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Vapiano (Italian): Another chain, this one is all around Europe. If you haven’t heard of it yet though, you’re in for a treat. Similar to All Fresh, the food is made up right in front of you as you order. It’s got the prices of a takeaway, but delicious, full, fresh meals. My local was again by the Kafka head and has really nice decor, with lots of greenery and open space. There’s also a bar at the back. Check your menu prices first as you receive a card on the way in. Your order is attached to that and you then pay on the way out. Don’t lose the card – there’s a huge fine.

Dhaba Beas (Vegetarian Indian): This is another great chain that’s dotted around the Kafka head. It’s got two branches there – one sit-down restaurant and one buffet where you pay by weight. Either are great! On Wednesdays, I’m pretty sure there’s a 40% discount in the sit-down at some point in the evening.

Pedro (Sweet Shop): There’s a lot of cool-looking sweet shops around Old Town, but if they’re you’re thing, this is a much cheaper alternative. I mean… look at these happy faces.

*Housemate Outing to Pedro,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Bars.

U Sudu: This is one of the most famous bars in Prague and for good reason! It’s again typically Czech, with a narrow front bar at street-level, which seems to be the only part. You go inside and there’s actually a back room with a piano, then a huge cave downstairs with what I named the foosball room (obvious reasons), the pac-man room (tables shaped like pacman), the sunset bar (a back bar with a huge orange circle on the wall, usually full of stag party guys for some reason), the Harry Potter room (long, narrow tunnel with stools) and the starry room (another bar with a huge seating area and disco lights). Beer is really cheap and the staff are sound. You find all sorts in the place but it can get really busy sometimes as it’s one of the few bars that stays open until 4am. Don’t be fooled by the ‘wine bar’ part on Google when you search it – this place is WAY more than that.

Propaganda: A little more lowkey, this is more of a local’s spot. It’s got two very chilled rooms and serves cheap drinks, pizzas and other food. There’s only two staff members (unless they’ve added more since I left), which makes it all that more quirky and special. Be patient with them though, and look out for the dog that’s often there.

*At the Table by the Window in Propaganda,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Bar Seven: Very close to Propaganda, Bar Seven has a front room with a random assortment of seats. It has a corridor with a few tables and then a really nice outdoor part. It’s again quite a locals spot, with quirky characters around. They also serve pies (both meat and vegetarian) for the equivalent of €4.

Prague Fear House: If you’re looking for a themed spot, this is definitely one to choose. It’s got typical horror decor and all the Hallowe’en vibes you could want. The atmosphere is pretty quiet, but the bar is connected to the actual fear house, where you can be chased by people dressed up etc. (typical haunted house scenario). That’s another activity to do, but if you’d prefer to give it a miss, you can chill out in the bar and wait to see everyone reach end the tour, usually screaming. A little on the pricier side but definitely an experience.

Joystick: This is another quirky, themed spot – this time full of retro games. It’s a little cheaper than the above but just as much, if not more, fun! There’s always more of a crowd here and you have the choice of pinball, nintendo, Mario, Tekken and much more to play. It’s an easy way to spend all your money without even realising though so be careful!

Clubs.

Duplex: Generally quite a typical club otherwise, Duplex’s defining feature is its rooftop area. You can see a great view of the city lit up at night. There’s usually an entry fee (sometimes free nights etc. – check Facebook for info and events) and drinks are very pricey inside, but it’s a club experience none the less.

Staré Mesto (Old Town)

Tourist Spots:

Libraries. This might sound like a weird one, but the municipal library of Prague is well worth a visit. It’s free in – but you only need to go to the entry hall anyway. Inside is this cool sculpture.

Kelementium. If you’ve seen a library in a film, chances are it’s this one (so I’ve been told). It’s known as the most beautiful library in the world. Although it costs about 300ck (€12, discounted for students under 25 – around €10), it’s well worth it. The guided tour is mandatory but really good. When we went it was crazy hot and the elevator was broken. We had to climb up spiral stairs and it was still the best thing I’ve ever done in Prague! You can’t go into the room itself as the books have to be kept at a specific temperature and moisture level. You view it from a ground-level balcony. No photos allowed, unfortunately.

You continue on upstairs from this library to the astronomical tower. This is the best view I’ve seen of Old Town, including those from parks etc. You can circle the whole tower and get loads of vantage points. If you choose one activity to spend on, make it Klementium.

*View from Klementium, © Orla Carty, 2019*

Paternoster (“Death Elevator”). Named after rosary beads (weird ha), these elevators move in a continuous loop. There’s several surviving in Europe, with three in Prague. One of these is right in Old Town, in the university’s faculty of law. They’re cool to use or just look at – it took me two visits to actually get inside. Fun and free.

Astronomical Clock. One of the most famous tourist spots in Prague. This is usually jam packed on the hour mark with people staring upwards (when it chimes between 9am and 11pm, the twelve apostles figurines do some little shindig on it, I’m not sure, I always got too frustrated with the crowds to stay and watch). Sadly, the man who made the clock was actually blinded afterwards, so that he could never make something so beautiful again. It’s free, so worth a walk past at some point.

*Astronomical Clock, © Orla Carty, 2019*

Charles Bridge. Again a standard tourist attraction but also free! The bridge connects Old Town to Malá Strana (castle area, my previous post is on that if you’re curious) and is way longer than you’d expect. It’s thronged with both history and tourists. The atmosphere is great though, with lots of musicians and statues to appreciate as you pass. Also, the handmade jewelry sold there actually isn’t bad value. Keep an eye on your stuff though, this is the biggest spot for pick-pocketing!

Old Town Square. Right by the astronomical clock is the centre of Old Town – the square. There’s a few very cool, gothic buildings to look at. Definitely don’t get any of the food or drink there though, it’s really overpriced. At certain times of year, there’s markets set up here with stages, music and lots more to look at.

*Easter Market in Old Town Square*, *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Jewish Quarter. The Jewish quarter is interesting to walk around. The first stop-off I would recommend is the cemetery. While you can pay for tickets to go inside, there’s also a door around the side with a hole you can peak into (for free). You can get pretty much the same view from there. Secondly, is the old synagogue with a stairs around the back. As the myth goes, a golem was created out of clay by an old rabbi during Medieval times in Prague, to protect the Jewish people from violent riots. The golem went out of control and started to attack random citizens. The rabbi used magic to turn him back into clay, and locked him behind an iron door in this synagogue (where you can see the stairs).

Hanging Freud Statue: Prague loves its quirky statues! Another David Cerny work, this depicts the phobia Freud had of his own death. Make sure you look up so you don’t miss it when passing. It sways in the wind so realistically that the fire department has been called by people before, mistaking him for a real man.

*Hanging Freud Statue, © Orla Carty, 2019*

Food and Drinks:

Skautsky Institut. This one is a bit of a secret bar. A beer in any place around Old Town Square is (at least) the equivalent of fiver – except this place. Instead here, it’s 40 ck, which is less than €2! There’s a terrace inside you can sit at, as well as a little alcove that has a full view over the square. Order in Czech if possible.

Zázemí. This is one of my all-time favourite bars in Prague. Its very typically Czech and you never know what you’ll find, from a film-orchestra practising, to a rock concert, to the staff handing out free shots of vodka for one of their birthdays (all three of these actually happened to me). It’s really cheap but order in Czech if you can – they serve difference glasses/brands/sizes for people speaking English, similar to above.

Al Capones. Just next door to Zazemí, this cocktail bar is perfect for a bar crawl. It’s the only place around that you’ll get a cocktail for the equivalent of €3, and they have a load of choice.

*A Bloody Mary in Al Capones,* *© Orla Carty, 2019*

Vzorkovna (Dog’s Bar): This is where I usually finished my bar crawl from the above two. Most people visiting will have heard of this quirky spot, or been recommended it. It’s named after the greyhound that chills out there – but there’s lots more to it. It’s got little spots you can climb up to, swings, oversized doors as tables, a stage with a netted seating area above and more. You pay 100 ck at the door, but this goes onto a card that you use for the night. You have to top up to buy anything, but be careful how much you do! That entrance fee alone covers two beers so you often don’t need any more.

*Upper seating area in Vzorkovna, © Orla Carty, 2019*

U Vejvodu. This beer hall is right in the centre. The drinks are very decently priced, but I wouldn’t recommend getting food there. It’s pretty expensive, with very small portions. Hop in for a casual beer, or three.

Sad Man’s Tongue. This sixties themed restaurant has some of the best burgers around. If you’re vegetarian they have plenty of Linda McCartney options too! It’s a fun night out, with all the decor and waiting staff dressed to suit.

Cafe Atmosphere. This is another secret bar that’s pretty decently priced. In traditional Czech style, it has a very small entrance and seems as if it’s just a narrow bar. Head down to the back to the outdoor courtyard for the nicest area.

Nightlife:

Clock Tower Bar Crawl. I’m possibly biased with this one as the staff are my friends, but it is the bar crawl I’d recommend you’re looking to party in Prague. It begins at the same location mentioned in my previous post, with the Riverside tour, and continues on to different bars, finishing with a club. There’s free drinks along the way and great people to lead you/party with. Find any of the green t-shirts around Old Town Square to ask them more about it!

Shots at Clock Tower Bar Crawl, © Jack McGimpsey, 2019

The Roxy. This is by far one of the coolest venues in Prague. It’s an old, beautiful theatre, converted into a club. Generally, big events are held there that you have to by tickets in advance for, so check who’s on in advance. I was there for Klap Tone and it was well worth it.

Epic. If standard European club is what you’re after, this is definitely the post I’d recommend. There’s nothing particularly unusual about it – but it has a huge dance floor, a sit-down area with couches, lots of cool lights and great music. There’s often an entry fee so just check their Facebook to see what event/fee is that night. Drinks inside are very expensive as is standard for these types of clubs, so best for a night where you plan to pre-drink then head out late. It also stays open until the early hours!

Chapeau Rouge. With three floors, this club has a style for everyone. From RnB to early noughties, to Techno in the Berlin-style boiler room, to the live music on the bottom floor, this place has it all. Drink prices are cheaper than most clubs but again, check in advance for events and fees. My particular favourite is the Dark Room monthly event.

Malá Strana (Little Town, ie. where the castle is)

Malá Strana is one of the most famous areas of Prague. It’s full of things to do and see. I’ll share my favourite spots I found there…

Tourist attractions:

The Castle. The most obvious, of course, but definitely worth a visit. There are a few entrances but I’ve only entered through two – and one has a lot more stairs than the other! I’d recommend entering via Malostranská (which you can walk or get the tram to) and exiting via Lesser Town. There’s even a pretty vineyard walk you can take instead of the main stairs! The castle is like a small village. Walk through and admire the architecture. You can even enter the church. Don’t be fooled by the ticket signs – you can still go into the building and see the majority without one, you just can’t go past the rope to the alter.

*Vineyard walkway from Castle,* © Orla *Carty, 2019*

The Narrowest Street in Prague. Complete with traffic lights, although most people don’t adhere to them. Be careful of the restaurant at the bottom though, it doesn’t have a very good reputation.

*The John Lennon Wall, © Orla Carty, 2019*

The John Lennon Wall. Again, super famous, but always worth a look. The designs are different every day. Be careful not to stand too close, or you might get wet paint on your clothes. You can also add something yourself if you’d like. Tours like The Riverside Parties tour (shoutout to the staff xo) even prep stencils that you paint on yourself at that stop.

The Baby Statues. These might be a bit grotesque and Stranger Thingsish, but they’re really famous in Prague. David Cerny is a well-known celeb there.

*Statues Outside Kafka Museum, © Orla Carty, 2019*

The Kafka Museum and Statue Outside. Franz Kafka is Prague’s most beloved writer, but this spot is even more famous for the peeing statues outside. Two rotating figures piss on a map of the Czech Republic. Yup. It’s another David Cerny invention. They spell out different literary quotes with their fluid. You can interrupt them by texting a number on a nearby plaque, so that they spell out a quote of your choice!

Food:

Starbucks. You might groan at this a little, but trust me. I’m not a fan myself of the coffee, but I called into this one once so that my friend could buy a juice and use their bathroom. I was really surprised by how nice it actually is. You can sit indoors, or outdoors, to admire the view properly. There’s also this cool map.

Cafe Taussig. This outdoor spot has a gorgeous view and is hidden from the general tourist crowd. It’s a relaxing way to get away from all the hustle and bustle of sight-seeing.

Pizzeria Canzone. Another stop on the Riverside Tour during Winter (plugging, love u guys), the pizza here is some of the best I’ve had. It comes with a hot sauce too. After walking around in freezing cold, you literally devour it. Also, super cheap if you just choose to go on your own, which is unusual for this area. Be careful speaking English there though, they may charge hidden costs for things like ketchup.

Parks:

Petrín. If you’re standing in front of the castle, facing the river, this park is on your right. You can sit anywhere along the hill to enjoy the view, or make the half-hour trek to the top to see Prague’s own mini Eiffel Tower. It also has the Hunger Wall (give it a google, it’s an interesting one). It’s quite a historic spot, mentioned in a few famous literary works. Hay-fever warning though.

Vojanovy Sady. Right in the centre of city life, there’s a serene little park, complete with peacocks and hedge walks. There’s a couple of these hidden parks, some with ponds and fish. One time I was lucky enough to come across an orchestra giving a free concert in one.

Prague

It’s only fitting to start with the place I most recently called home, for six months. Prague is a gem, with far far more than the stag parties and university trips everyone already knows all about.

Although I didn’t come close to discovering everything the city has to offer, I did find some really amazing spots. I’ll try and jot down everything from each district in case you ever find yourself there! If anyone has pieces to add, please let me know.